Laos holiday guide: plan the perfect two-week trip

Laos has so much to offer it can’t be ‘done’ in a fortnight, so focus on one region or cherry-pick from our list of its top sights, treks, homestays, tours and even the Most Secret Place on Earth

Landlocked, communist, studded with limestone spires and gilded temples, riddled with caves and home to rare wildlife, Laos has a unique charm for adventurous travellers. They relish its sleepy atmosphere, charming people and the sharp contrast with Thailand or Vietnam.
If you don’t have the backpacker’s luxury of boundless time and can only spend a couple of weeks in Laos, it’s an idea to focus on one region or cherry-pick sites connected by flights using Lao Airlines. With long distances and less-than-great roads (this is one of the least-developed countries in south-east Asia), river and air transport make sense. Check out also the hop-on, hop-off Stray Travel passes (one week from $389).
Laos is popular with bicyclists, kayakers and bikers, too. For company, read Christopher Kremmer’s travelogue-cum-mystery-and-history book Bamboo Palace: Discover the Lost Dynasty of Laos, and relish the wry humour in the novels about the adventures of Dr Siri, the national coroner of Laos, and his morgue assistant Dtui by London-born Colin Cotterell.
The main international gateway to Laos is Luang Prabang, and as no one visits Laos for the first time without soaking up the essence of this city, our two-week itinerary starts here.

Luang Prabang

Languid Luang Prabang is Laos’ poster city, built on a finger of land that pokes into the Mekong river in the northern mountains. From here, the royal family ruled the Kingdom of a Million Elephants, founded in 1353. Its exquisite Buddhist temples, Royal palaces and French colonial buildings are now blended with restaurants and roadside cafes, all swagged in bougainvillea. For accommodation, see our top 10 places to stay in Luang Prabang.

After exploring the historic sights of the Unesco-protected city over a few days (the Royal Palace, Wat Mai, Wat Xieng Thong), get a feel for the living culture with a more practical tour. Learn the craft of bamboo weaving (from US$26) and batik (from US$60) at social enterprise Ock Pop Tok overlooking the Mekong north of town or explore the arts and crafts scene with a three-night tour with Backyard Travels (from US$389). The annual Luang Prabang Film Festival (5-9 December) is worth planning a trip around, as is the autumn Lai Heua Fai fireboat festival.

The north-west: rare wildlife, trekking and homestays


Swap elephants for primates by taking a slow boat down the Mekong to Houay Xai, on the Thai border, for the incomparable Gibbon Experience(from $200pp). Zipline to a treehouse above the Bokeo forest canopy, where you spend the night, and wake to the extraordinary chorus of black-cheeked crested gibbons at dawn. If pushed for time, try a glamping trip to Kamu Lodge ($135 a night, including transport, lunch and dinner), three hours by boat from Luang Prabang. The lodge employs the Kamu people from the next door village, and finances micro-loans and medical facilities.
From Houay Xai, take a bus on the upgraded road north-east to Luang Nam Tha, getting off at Vieng Phou Ka to browse indigo-dyed wares, bamboo paper and masks at the ethnic Lanten village of Nam Chang. Luang Nam Thais the trekking capital of Laos but treks out of Vieng Phou Ka with the village’s ecoguide unit (+856 81 212400) are less busy.
If ending your trip here, fly from Luang Nam Tha to the capital Vientiane (there are no direct flights to Luang Prabang) or continue overland to untouristy Oudomxay for trekking and homestay opportunities. There are caves and ethnic Thai Lue and Kamu villages to visit, pottery classes at Ban Yor village (overnight trip about €130), and hot springs at Muang La. Splash out on a stay at the Lao chic Muang La Resort (doubles $300 half-board, muangla.com) with its own hot springs spa.

North and north-east: war history, relaxation, wildlife

For lofty limestone scenery, make your way north by boat or bus from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw, perched above the Nam Ou river, for trekking and kayaking. Then head to Muang Ngoi for walks amid iridescent rice paddies and karstic peaks. Be sure to enjoy a cold Beerlao at sunset on the Muang Ngoi river bend.
For off-the-radar trekking amid tea plantations, push on north by boat or road to Phongsaly, on the way to the Chinese border. Joining a tour such as the one run by Exo Travel) is an easy way to do this.
Nong Khiaw is the appealing gateway to Laos’ remote north-east. Nam Et-Phou Louey national park, 3½ hours’ drive away is home to an award-winning wildlife project. The Nam Nern Night Safari (overnight trip $215pp all-inclusive) takes visitors in search of rare tigers and other wildlife at a jungle camp.
In early 2016, two further treks will open: a challenging Cloud Forest Climb that will summit Phou Louey (Mount Forever, 2,257m) where most of the park’s tigers, bears, leopards and singing rare white-cheeked gibbons live. And the family-friendly Nest Trek will circuit a salt lick at Poung Nyied, with accommodation in new canvas and bamboo lantern camp pods, suspended above the forest. A newly built observation post overlooks the lick.

Vang Vieng, Vientiane and the south

Luang Prabang, and the attractions of southern Laos can’t be all done in two week. Those less than enamoured with caves and limestone peaks could skip Vang Vieng, Thakhèk and Savannakhet and fly from Vientiane or Luang Prabang to Pakse, or skip the Bolaven Plateau and Xe Pian in the south.

Vang Vieng is a windy five-hour drive south of Luang Prabang. The journey can be broken in the Kasi district, 50km north of Vang Vieng, at Nola Guest House (doubles from about $10). It’s a laid-back riverside spot with forest and mountain views.
Vang Vieng gained notoriety a few years ago for drunken tubing on the Nam Song river, and the deaths of several backpackers. This has been reined in and the town, in a sublimely gorgeous limestone region, now showcases more natural delights. Spearheading the change is Green Discovery, with its two-day Vang Vieng Challenge ($140pp) including zip-lining, abseiling and a via ferrata.


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